Residence of Sayyid ‘Abd al-Rahman al-Mahdi


The elegant building shown in these pictures lies in the centre of Khartoum and was once the residence of Sayyid ‘Abd al-Rahman al-Mahdi, the son of al-Mahdi. As the founder of the modern Ansar movement and a prominent nationalist figure in the formation of an independent Sudan, he is perhaps the most important political figure in the country’s twentieth century’s history. He died in 1959 and for some years the building was used as the National Record Office (national archives).

My photographs were taken in the early 2000’s. Unfortunately, a few years ago the building was half demolished and then left in a ruined state. Land prices in the centre of Khartoum are very high and exert pressure on development, but town planning should surely be balanced with keeping representative examples of buildings from the past. It was a great shame that this palatial building dating from 1918, with its beautiful garden and historical connections, should have been damaged in this way.



Easter Garden at Unity High School

Easter Garden at Unity High School, Khartoum (photo by Muna Zaki)

Easter Garden at Unity High School, Khartoum (photo by Muna Zaki)


Flicking through some photos taken during the last year, I came upon one of an Easter Garden at Unity High School , Khartoum.

Unusually, many Christian denominations were celebrating Holy Week at the same time. My contribution was to make this Easter garden.

It is true the Lord is risen. – Luke 24:34

May I never boast except in the cross of our Lord Jesus Christ, through which the world has been crucified to me, and I to the world. Galatians 6:14,

The Nile

From the balcony of my apartment in Khartoum North I enjoy a great panoramic view of central Khartoum. On the opposite bank in startling whiteness is the presidential palace built on the ruins of General Charles Gordon’s last stand. Encircling and dwarfing the palace are the glassed high-rise towers of a modern city that is rapidly shedding the faded appearance of its colonial past. Continue reading

Omdurman’s Camel Market

A calf at Souq al-MuweliH.

A calf at Souq al-MuweliH.

The camel market on the western outskirts of Omdurman is a fascinating place to visit. There is a feeling that the modern capital of Khartoum has been left far behind as soon as you reach Souq Libya. A few kilometres further out you have truly entered the west of Sudan, a world a million miles away from the grand villas and air-conditioned shopping malls in Khartoum. Continue reading

Lions in the Sudan

I knew straight away that I wasn’t going to see the lions eat. They lay drowsily within their cage at the zoo in Khartoum North as the zookeeper carefully placed his hand inside the cage and rubbed the neck of the lioness. A sure way to lose your fingers or hand I thought. But no it wasn’t dangerous he explained because this lioness had been tamed through her years of human contact.

Rather you than me I thought…

Keeping lions in the Sudan goes back a long way. ‘Abd al-Rahman al Rashid (Sultan of Darfur, 1787-1803) kept a pair of lions that were apparently so tame that they could be led into the market at El Fasher to feed on the offal from the butchers’ stalls.

Continue reading

Farewell to winter.

Alas the winter is coming to an end here in the Khartoum. The bright sunny mornings with a nip in the air will soon depart as February gives way to March. All too soon the blinding heat of the Sudanese summer will arrive in April. After that a fierce sun will beat down relentlessly all day and every day scorching the sandy streets and burning the flat zinc roofs. Relief from the stifling heat only then comes in August with the sudden violent thunderstorms that pierce the night’s sky and send a torrent of water to miraculously green the savannah once again.

A Friday morning stroll in Khartoum (part three)

Before leaving the grounds of the Republican Palace Museum, I cast my eyes for a moment on the immense structure of the new Presidential Palace with its imposing arched entrance and domed roof. A little further up the road is Nimeiri’s monument to national unity and the Shuhuda gardens – a square with some sad memories. Continue reading