Omdurman’s Camel Market

A calf at Souq al-MuweliH.

A calf at Souq al-MuweliH.

The camel market on the western outskirts of Omdurman is a fascinating place to visit. There is a feeling that the modern capital of Khartoum has been left far behind as soon as you reach Souq Libya. A few kilometres further out you have truly entered the west of Sudan, a world a million miles away from the grand villas and air-conditioned shopping malls in Khartoum. Continue reading


Kitchener’s last gunboat – Al Melik

Kitchener’s last gunboat lies half hidden under some trees on the banks of the Blue Nile in Khartoum. Silent and slowly decaying.

The Melik has served as the headquarters of the Blue Nile Sailing Club since its retirement from military service in the 1920s. It was moored in the river until an unusually heavy flood in the late 1980s left it high and dry. Ironically, the flood may have saved it from slowly rusting away. Continue reading

The Nile’s Rich Harvest

Bulti (Tilapia) is not the only fish sold at the Murada’s fish market in Omdurman as any visitor will soon notice by wandering amongst the sellers’ baskets packed with fish and ice.
Here is a brief list of fish that I have noticed but it is far from being definitive. Go see for yourself!

The most common fish are:

bulti- tilapia – (see blog for a recipe)

bayaad – a common catfish that can be fried or backed in a earthen ware pot (Tajin)/or tray with rice and a sauce. Continue reading